Wednesday, December 29, 2010

The Disneyland of Mexican destinations

COZUMEL, MEXICO

San Francisco Beach
I was really looking forward to going to Cozumel. When we were planning our trip, one of the places that I suggested we look for a house to rent was Cozumel. It was decided that Playa del Carmen would be more convenient because it was on the mainland. It would thus be easier to travel to different places like Tulum and Chichen Itza. But part of me was sad that we wouldn't be staying on this island, renowned for their scuba diving.

It takes a ferry ride to get to Cozumel, one that I was pumping myself up for. The Playa del Carmen ferry terminal is where the sellers are the worst. Last time I was walking in that area, I got so pissed off that I couldn't just go and walk by them to sit on the beach without them yelling at me for me to buy something. I was so pissed, in fact that it showed on my face -- on my way back, a shopkeeping actually tried apologizing to me. But now I was ready to let their attempts at my money to just wash over me. It would just background noise. They would be ruthless though, and I would have to just keep my cool. And sure enough, they tried to sell my mother, Marc and me everything from snorkel tours to all around packages to car rentals. Even in line for the ferry, they were selling. Even on the boat!

Band on the ferry
The ferry ride to Cozumel was surprisingly entertaining. There is a band that plays there. The same guys were on the ferry back, playing the same songs, so I'm sure that they really only have 5 - 10 songs in their repertoire, but I have to give it to them -- it makes the boat ride something more than a bumpy ride. I was actually happy sitting there in the sun, listening to the music. I think the singer was actually pretty entertained at the fact that my mother and I were into the music. Everyone else on the boat seemed to be Mexican. And there we were, the tourists with the video cameras, watching the Latino boys.

Although I did know that Cozumel is a cruise port (you can see the cruise ships on the horizon from Playa del Carmen), I didn't know what that meant for the island. I mean, I get that you have to cater to the cruise ships, but it would be great if I could buy something in the countries currency. But no. Everything is in US dollars. And I mean everything. I had been looking for an embroidered shirt. You know, the stereotypical Mexican kind with the hand stitched flowers on white linen. I found a store that sold Mexican clothing and was excited to go in. I found a shirt that I liked and asked how much. "$30" was the response. I stared at the guy blankly because that really didn't mean anything to me. "How much in Pesos?" I ask. He guy had to go and check with someone.

I felt like it was a bit of a watered down experience. It is beautiful there. Sandy beaches, clean streets and pretty architecture surround you. And my mother, Marc and I had a really nice time at the beach and while snorkeling. But again, when we wanted to eat, the menu was in US dollars and comprised mainly of burgers and burritos. At that point, we gave in and ordered a bucket of beers and burgers. My father would have been horrified had he been there. But that really is the way that things work in Cozumel. People go there for the weather, beaches and the prices. There really isn't that much interest in learning about Mexico, the Mayans or even just the culinary culture. I guess for that, it's back to the mainland.

In hindsight, I'm really glad that we aren't staying in Cozumel. Although everyone speaking English is very convenient, I felt like I was in a bit of an amusement park. It's beautiful for sure, and I would not complain at all at the suggestion at going back, especially to go diving, as that's something we didn't do. But to me, Cozumel that has crossed the line of touristy-ness.

At the touristy San Francisco beach

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